Improvised Munitions Handbook (Improvised Explosive Devices or IEDs)
Hand grenades can be made from a piece of iron pipe. The filler can be plastic or granular military explosive, improvised explosive, or propellant from shotgun or small arms ammunition.
| Materials Required |
|---|
| Iron pipe, threaded ends, 1-1/2 inch to 3 inches diameter, 3 inches to 8 inches long |
| Two (2) iron pipe caps |
| Explosive or propellant |
| Nonelectric blasting cap (commercial or military) |
| Fuse cord |
| Hand drill |
| Pliers |
1. Place blasting cap on one end of fuse cord and crimp with pliers.
Note: To find out how long the fuse cord should be, check the time it
takes a known length to burn.
If 12 inches burns in 30 seconds, a 6-inch cord will ignite the grenade in 15
seconds.
2. Screw pipe cap to one and of pipe.
Place fuse cord with blasting cap into the opposite end so that the blasting
cap in near the center of the pipe.
Note: If plastic explosive is to be used, fill pipe before
inserting blasting cap.
Push a round stick into the center of the explosive to make a hole and then
insert the blasting cap.
3. Pour explosive or propellant into pipe a little bit at a time.
Tap the base of the pipe frequently to settle filler.
4. Drill a hole in the center of the unassembled pipe cap large enough
for the fume cord to pass through.
5. Wipe pipe threads to remove any filler material.
Slide the drilled pipe cap over the fuse and screw hand tight onto the pipe.
Effective fragmentation grenades can be made from a block of TNT or other blasting explosive and nails.
| Materials Required |
|---|
| Block of TNT or other blasting explosive |
| Nails |
| Nonelectric military blasting cap |
| Fuse Cord |
| Tape, string, wire or glue |
1. If an explosive charge other than a standard TNT block is used, make
a hole in the center of the charge for inserting the blasting cap.
TNT can be drilled with relative safety.
With plastic explosives, a hole can be made by pressing a round stick into the
center of the charge.
The hole should be deep enough that the blasting cap is totally within the
explosive.
2. Tape, tie or glue one or two rows of closely packed nails to sides of
explosive block.
Nails should completely cover the four surfaces of the block.
3. Place blasting cap on one end of the fuse cord and crimp with pliers.
|
Note: To find out how long the fuse cord should be, check the time it
takes a known length to burn.
If 12 inches (30 cm) burns for 30 seconds, a 10 second delay will require a 4
inch (10 cm) fuse.
|
4. Insert the blasting cap in the hole in the block of explosive.
Tape or tie fuse cord securely in place so that it will not fall out when the
grenade is thrown.
An effective directional antipersonnel mine can be made by placing nails on
only one side of the explosive block.
For this came, an electric blasting cap can be used.
This cone charge will penetrate 3 to 4 inches of armor. Placed on an engine or engine compartment it will disable a tank or other vehicle.
| Materials Required |
|---|
| Glass wine bottle with false bottom (cone shaped) |
| Plastic or castable explosive |
| Blasting cap |
| Gasoline or kerosene (small amount) |
| String |
| Adhesive tape |
1. Soak a piece of string in gasoline or kerosene.
Double wrap this string around the wine bottle approximately 3 inches (7-1/2
cm) above the top of the cone.
Note: A small amount of motor oil added to the gasoline or kerosene will
improve results.
2. Ignite the string and allow to burn for 2 minutes.
Then plunge the bottle into cold water to crack the bottle.
The top half can now be easily removed and discarded.
3. If plastic explosive is used:
4. If TNT or other castable explosive is used:
Suspend this can in a larger container which is partly filled with water.
A stiff wire or stick pushed through the smaller can will accomplish this.
|
Caution: The inner can must not rest on the bottom of the outer
container.
|
| Caution: Keep area well ventilated while melting explosive. Fumes may be poisonous. |
1. Place blasting cap in the hole in the top of the charge.
If nonelectric cap is used be sure cap is crimped around fuze and fuze is long
enough to provide safe delay.
2. Place the charge so that the bottom is 3 to 4 inches (7-1/2 to 10 cm)
from the target.
This can be done by taping legs to the charge or any other convenient means as
long as there is nothing between the base of the charge and the target.
3. If electric cap is used, connect blasting cap wires to firing circuit.
Note: The effectiveness of this charge can be increased by placing it
inside a can, box, or similar container and packing sand or dirt between the
charge and the container.
This device can be used as a land mine that will explode when the trip wire is pulled.
| Materials Required |
|---|
| Hand grenade having side safety lever |
| Sturdy container, open at one end, that is just large enough to fit over grenade and its safety lever (tin can of proper size is suitable) |
| Strong string or wire |
Note: The container must be of such a size that, when the grenade is placed in it and the safety pin removed, its sides will prevent the safety lever from springing open. One end must be completely open.
1. Fasten one piece of string to the closed end of container, making a
strong connection.
This can be done by punching 2 holes in the can, looping the string through
them, and tying a knot.
2. Tie free end of this string to bush, stake, fencepost, etc.
3. Fasten another length of string to the grenade such that it cannot
interfere with the functioning of the ignition mechanism of the grenade.
4. Insert grenade into container.
5. Lay free length of string across path and fasten to stake, bush, etc. The string should remain taut.
1. Carefully withdraw safety pin by pulling on ring. Be sure safety lever is restrained during this operation. Grenade will function in normal manner when trip wire is pulled.
Note: In areas where concealment is possible, a greater effect may be obtained by suspending the grenade several feet above ground, as illustrated below.
A directional shrapnel launcher that can be placed in the path of advancing troops.
| Materials Required |
|---|
| Iron pipe approximately 3 feet (1 meter) long and 2 inches to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) in diameter and threaded on at least one end. Salvaged artillery cartridge case may also be used. |
| Threaded cap to fit pipe |
| Black powder or salvaged artillery propellant about 1/2 pound (200 grams) total |
| Electrical igniter (commercial squib or improvised igniter, section 6.1). Safety or improvised fuse may also be used. |
| Small stones about 1 inch (2-1/2 cm) in diameter or small size scrap; about 1 pound (400 grams) total |
| Rags for wadding, each about 20 inches by 20 inches (50 cm x 50 cm) |
| Paper or bag |
| Battery and wire |
| Stick (nonmetallic) |
Note: Be sure pipe has no cracks or flaws.
1. Screw threaded cap onto pipe.
2. Place propellant and igniter in paper or rag and tie package with
string so contents will not fall out.
3. Insert packaged propellant and igniter into pipe until package rests against threaded cap leaving firing leads extending from open end of pipe.
4. Roll rag till it is about 6 inches (15-1/2 cm) long and the same diameter as pipe. Insert rag wadding against packaged propellant igniter. With caution, pack tightly using stick.
5. Insert stones and/or scrap metal into pipe.
6. Insert second piece of rag wadding against stones and/or metal scrap. Pack tightly as before.
1. Bury pipe in ground with open end facing the expected path of the enemy. The open end may be covered with cardboard and a thin layer of dirt or leaves as camouflage.
2. Connect firing leads to battery and switch. Mine can be remotely fired when needed or attached to trip device placed in path of advancing troops.
Note: A nonelectrical ignition system can be substituted for the electrical ignition system as follows.
1. Follow above procedure, substituting safety fuse for igniter.
2. Light safety fuse when ready to fire.
This shaped charge will penetrate 3 inches (7-1/2 cm) of armor. (It will disable a vehicle if placed on the engine or engine compartment).
| Materials Required |
|---|
| Glass Coke bottle, 6-1/2 ounce (192 ml) size |
| Plastic or castable explosive, about 1 pound (454 grams) |
| Blasting cap |
| Metal cylinder, open at both ends, about 6 inches (15 cm) long and 2 inches (5 cm) inside diameter. Cylinder should be heavy walled for best results. |
| Plug to fit mouth of coke bottle (rags, metal, wood, paper, etc.) |
| Nonmetal rod about 1/4 inch (6 mm) in diameter and 8 inches (20 cm) or more in length |
| Tape or string |
| 2 tin cans if castable explosive is used (section 2.3) |
Note: Cylinder may be cardboard, plastic, etc. if castable explosive is used.
1. Place plug in mouth of bottle.
2. Place cylinder over top of bottle until bottom of cylinder rests on
widest part of bottle.
Tape cylinder to bottle.
Container should be straight on top of bottle.
3. If plastic explosive is used:
Place explosive in cylinder a little at a time tamping with rod until
cylinder is full.
4. If castable explosive is used, follow procedure of Wine Bottle Cone
Charge, section 2.3, step 4, a through f.
1. Place blasting cap in hole in top of explosive.
| Caution: Do not insert blasting cap until charge is ready to be detonated. |
2. Place bottom of Coke bottle flush against the target.
If target is not flat and horizontal, fasten bottle to target by any convenient
means, such as by placing tape or string around target and top of bottle.
Bottom of bottle acts as stand-off.
| Caution: Be sure that base of bottle is flush against target and that there is nothing between the target and the base of the bottle. |
3. Connect leads from blasting cap to firing circuit.
1. Crimp cap around fuse.
| Caution: Be sure fuse is long enough to provide a safe delay. |
2. Follow steps 1, 2, and cautions of Method I.
3. Light fuse when ready to fire.
A shaped charge can be made from common pipe. It will penetrate 1-1/2 inch (3-1/2 cm) of steel, producing a hole 1-1/2 inch (3-1/2 cm) in diameter.
| Materials Required | |
|---|---|
| Iron or steel pipe, 2 to 2-1/2 inches (5 to 6-1/2 cm) in diameter and 3 to 4 inches (7-1/2 to 10 cm) long | |
| Metal pipe, 1/2 to 3/4 inch (1-1/2 to 2 cm) in diameter and 1-1/2 inch (3-1/2 cm) long, open at both ends. (The wall of the pipe should be as thin as possible.) | |
| Blasting cap | |
| Nonmetallic rod, 1/4 inch (6 mm) in diameter | |
| Plastic or castable explosive | |
| 2 metal cans of different sizes | If castable explosive is used |
| Stick or wire | |
| Heat source | |
1. If plastic explosive is used:
Place larger pipe on flat surface.
Hand pack and tamp explosive into pipe.
Leave approximately 1/4 inch (6 mm) space at top.
Insert small pipe into hole.
| Important: Be sure direct contact is made between explosive and small pipe. Tamp explosive around pipe by hand if necessary. |
Turn pipe upside down and push rod 1/2 inch (1-1/4 cm) into center of
opposite end of explosive to form a hole for the blasting cap.
| Caution: Do not insert blasting cap in hole until ready to fire shaped charge. |
2. If TNT or other castable explosive is used:
Place large pipe on flat surface.
Pour explosive into pipe until it is 1-3/4 inch (4 cm) from the top.
Place small pipe in center of large pipe so that it rests on top of
explosive.
Holding small pipe in place, pour explosive around small pipe until explosive
is 1/4 inch (6 mm) from top of large pipe.
When explosive has completely hardened, turn pipe upside down and bore a
hole for the blasting cap in the middle of the top of the charge about 1/2 inch
(1-1/4 cm) deep.
1. Place blasting cap in hole made for it.
| Caution: Do not insert blasting cap until charge is ready to fire. |
2. Place other end of pipe flush against the target.
Fasten pipe to target by any convenient means, such as by placing tape or
string around target and top of pipe, if target is not flat and horizontal.
| Caution: Be sure that base of pipe is flush against target and that there is nothing between the target and the base of the pipe. |
3. Connect leads from blasting cap to firing circuit.
1. Crimp cap around fuse.
| Caution: Be sure fuse is long enough to provide a safe delay. |
2. Follow steps 1, 2, and caution of Method I.
3. Light fuse when ready to fire.
The original printed document from which this electronic edition was produced goes directly from section 2.7 to 2.9. There was no section 2.8.
An effective shaped charge can be made using various types of commercial funnels. See table for penetration capabilities.
| Materials Required |
|---|
| Container (soda or beer can, etc.), approximately 2-1/2 inches diameter x 5 inches long (6-1/4 cm x 12-1/2 cm) |
| Funnel(s) (glass, steel, or aluminum) 2-1/2 inches (6-1/2 cm) in diameter |
| Wooden rod or stick, 1/4 inch (6 mm) in diameter |
| Tape |
| Blasting cap (electrical or nonelectrical) |
| Sharp cutting edge |
| Explosive |
1. Remove the top and bottom from can and discard.
2. Cut off and throw away the spout of the funnel(s).
Note: When using 3 funnels (see table), place the modified funnels
together as tight and as straight as possible.
Tape the funnels together at the outer ridges.
3. Place the funnel(s) in the modified can.
Tape on outer ridges to hold funnel(s) to can.
4. If plastic explosive is used, fill the can with the explosive using
small quantities, and tamp with wooden rod or stick.
Note: If castable explosive is used, refer to
step 4 of section 2.3.
5. Cut wooden rod to lengths 3 inches longer than the standoff length.
(See table.)
Position three of these rods around the explosive filled can and hold in place
with tape.
Note: The position of the rods on the container must conform to
standoff dimensions to obtain the penetrations given in the table.
| Funnel Material |
Number of Funnels |
Standoff | Penetration | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| inches | metric | inches | metric | ||
| Glass | 1 | 3-1/2 | 9 cm | 4 | 10 cm |
| Steel | 3 | 1 | 2-1/2 cm | 2-1/2 | 6 cm |
| Aluminum | 3 | 3-1/2 | 9 cm | 2-1/2 | 6 cm |
| If only one steel or aluminum funnel is available: | |||||
| Steel | 1 | 1 | 2-1/2 cm | 1-1/2 | 4 cm |
| Aluminum | 1 | 1 | 2-1/2 cm | 1-1/2 | 4 cm |
6. Make a hole for blasting cap in the center of the explosive with rod
or stick.
| Caution: Do not place blasting cap in place until the funnel shaped charge is ready for use. |
1. Place blasting cap in the hole in top of the charge.
If nonelectric cap is used, be sure cap is crimped around fuse and fuse is long
enough to provide safe delay.
2. Place (tape if necessary) the funnel shaped charge on the target so that nothing is between the base of charge and target.
3. If electric cap is used, connect blasting cap wires to firing circuit.
This shaped charge made from construction materials will cut through up to nearly 3 inches of armor depending upon the liner used (see table).
| Materials Required | |
|---|---|
| Standard structural angle or pipe (see table) | |
| Wood or cardboard container | |
| Hacksaw | If pipe is used |
| Vice | |
| Wooden rod, 1/4 inch (6 mm) diameter | |
| Explosive | |
| Blasting cap | |
| Tape | |
| Type | Material | Liner Size inches nominal |
Standoff | Penetration | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| inches | metric | inches | metric | |||
| angle | steel | 3 x 3 legs x 1/4 web | 2 | 5 cm | 2-3/4 | 7 cm |
| angle | aluminum | 2 x 2 legs x 3/16 web | 5-1/2 | 14 cm | 2-1/2 | 6 cm |
| pipe half section | aluminum | 2 diameter | 2 | 5 cm | 2 | 5 cm |
| pipe half section | copper | 2 diameter | 1 | 2-1/2 cm | 1-3/4 | 4 cm |
Note: These were the only linear shaped charges of this type that were found to be more efficient than the Ribbon Charge.
Ribbon Charge: No standoff is required; just place on target.
1. If pipe is used:
2. Place angle or pipe half section with open end face down on a flat surface.
3. Make container from any material available. The container must be as wide as the angle or pipe half section, twice as high, and as long as the desired cut to be made with the charge.
4. Place container over the liner (angle or pipe half section) and tape liner to container.
5. If plastic explosive is used, fill the container with the explosive
using small quantities, and tamp explosive with wooden rod or stick.
Note: If castable explosive is used, refer to
step 4 of section 2.3.
6. Cut wooden rod to lengths 2 inches longer than the standoff length
(see table).
Position the rods at the corners of the explosive filled container and hold in
place with tape.
Note: The position of the rods on the container must conform to standoff
and penetration dimensions given in the table.
7. Make a hole for blasting cap in the side of the container 1/2 inch above the liner and centered with the wooden rod.
| Caution: Do not place blasting cap in place until the linear shaped charge is ready for use. |
1. Place blasting cap into hole on the side of the container.
If nonelectric cap is used, be sure cap is crimped around fuse and fuse is long
enough to provide safe delay.
2. Place (tape if necessary) the linear shaped charge on the target so that nothing is between base of charge and target.
3. If electric cap is used, connect blasting cap wires to firing circuit.